CtvBR 


KM 

UK 




■W 




3^ 


lea 








W8# 




1 ■ 

1 1 '; 





1 




S °x 



VV 
"%• vV 



V^ 



.^'% 



•A 



-S x 



^•"^ 






•^ 

■p 



& 






- 








- "y--C : 'h{ ' ^ ' f 'n. i '' 




ZK 






o r 




N° ^ 










v *° 






<: 



$ 

v 



.r%. 












■$■- 



v0 









/ "S. ' 






N 







.# 



•' '% 



' 




I 






inning Woodwo 







m 



4, 







saSSr 






M 



V*-"* 



Km 



Projects for Beginning Woodwork 
and Mechanical Drawing 

By Ira ^Griffith, A. B. 

n 

Assistant Professor of Manual Arts, Bradley Polytechnic Institute, Peoria, Illinois. 

Author of "Essentials of Woodworking, " "Woodwork for Amateur Craftsmen," 

"Correlated Courses in Woodwork and Mechanical Drawine," and 

"Advanced Projects in Woodwork." 




THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS 

PEORIA, ILLINOIS 



COPYRIGHT, 
IRA. S. GRIFFITH, 

1912. 



/*- / 



€CU316316 



4> 



PREFACE. 

"Projects for Beginning Woodwork and Mechanical Drawing" is composed of woodworking pro- 
jects that have proven of exceptional service in introducing the subject matter of woodworking in a 
systematic manner. 

The aim thruout has been to provide successful rather than unique projects. For this reason a 
number of familiar projects will be found included. Some of these are already in print. Having been 
in use quite generally before they appeared in print, they may be considered as common heritage, 
and having proven themselves of exceptional worth, they are here repeated. 

A few projects, notably the china wall rack, stool, picture frame and pedestal, are original only 
in that the dimensions or construction is modified. The first is after a design by John D. Adams, the 
others after models in use in the schools of Cleveland, Ohio. 

The working drawings of these projects have been planned with special reference to the grad- 
ual introduction of the conventions of mechanical drawing. The simpler conventions are in keeping 
with the present trend in the practice of the best drafting rooms. The indefinite length of blocking- 
out line as used in these plates is a device intended to keep ever before the beginner the draftsman's 
method of attack. Experience has shown this to be a most effective way to discourage line drawing 
from point to point. <, 

All of the projects for mechanical drawing here given are completely solved.' Experience has 
shown that it is possible for a boy to make a very excellent copy of a drawing without fully under- 



PROJECTS FOR BEGINNING WOODWORK 



standing its meaning. The making of stock bills assists greatly in forcing the boy to interpret his 
drawing. In addition to this, however, it is advisable to give the pupils some work in problems that 
are unsolved. Problems in Mechanical Drawing by Charles A. Bennett 1 is especially designed 
to meet this need, and the problems of Groups I-IV in his book have been used by the author in 
connection with plates of Groups VII and VIII with very great success. While not directly con- 
nected with the woodwork, they form a most effective method of reviewing the principles of draw- 
ing given in connection with the plates of Groups I-VI. 

The directions under "Notes on Drawing" and "Notes on Woodworking Projects" are for the 
pupils' use. They are not intended in any way to take the place of a careful demonstration, but are 
offered merely as guide posts to aid the beginner in his efforts to recall the order of procedure as given 
in the demonstration. When he has become accustomed to working in a logical manner there is no 
longer any necessity for definite directions in note form, hence the meagerness of the notes for the 
later groups. 

While the projects and notes of the book are arranged especially for use with the courses outlined 
and discussed in Correlated Courses in Woodwork and Mechanical Drawing by the author, there is 
nothing in the form of the plates themselves to prevent their being used with any course in begin- 
ning woodwork. 

May, 1912. . —IRA S. GRIFFITH. 

1 Another book by the same author entitled Grammar Grade Problems in Mechanical Drawing, has been announced 
as in preparation. This will probably meet the needs still better. 



LIST OF PLATES. 





Group I. 


17. 


Bird house. 




Group VIII. 


1. 


Cutting board. 


18. 


Broom holder. 


37. 


Cross-lap joint. 




Group II. 


19. 


Bench-hook. 


38. 
39. 


Book trough. 
Electric cluster. 


2. 


Counting board. 




Group VI. 


40. 


Electric table or desk light. 


3. 


Coat and hat rack. 


20. 


Teapot blocks. 


41. 


Calendar mount or memo board. 


4. 


Key-rack. 


21. 


Thermometer back. 


42. 


Hall rack or mirror frame. 




Group III. 


22. 


Calendar mount. 


43. 


Picture-frame. 




23. 


Card holder. 


44. 


Taboret. 


5. 


Ringtoss. 


24. 


Bill file. 


45. 


China wall rack. 


6. 


Spool holder. 


25. 


Handkerchief box. 


46. 


Pedestal. 


7. 


Game board. 


26. 


Glove box. 






8. 


Laundry register. 

Group IV. 




Group VII. 






9. 


Sleeve board. 


27. 


Groove joint. 






10. 


Bread board. 


28. 


Book-rack. 




Supplementary. 


11. 


Cake board. 


29. 


Necktie rack. 






12. 


Scouring board. 


30. 


Magazine rack. 


47. 


Suggestive treatments for stool. 


13. 


Coat hanger. ■> 


31. 


Footstool. 


48. 


Suggestive treatments for necktie 






32. 


Paper or magazine wall rack. 




rack. 




Group V. 


33. 


Wall shelf. 


49. 


Suggestive treatments for book- 


14. 


Nail box. 


34. 


Table or desk shelves. 




rack. 


15. 


Knife polishing box. 


35. 


Taboret. 


50. 


Introductory sheet, Drawing. 


16. 


Knife and fork box. 


36. 


Stool. 


51. 


Geometric sheet, Drawing. 



PRINCIPLES AND SEQUENCE. 



DRAWING 

Introductory Sheet 

Straight lines (Use of instruments) 

Angles 

Lettering . 

Group I. 
Order of procedure 
Relation of views 
Blocking out 
Simple dimensioning 
Scale 

Group II. 
Foreshortening 

Geometric Construction Sheet 
Circles 
Hexagon 
Octagon 
Ellipse 



Group III. 
Hidden edges 

Group IV. 
Center lines 
Tangents 

Points of tangency 
Cross-sections 

Group V. 
Working drawings 
Broken views 

Group VI. 
Appreciation in structural and deco- 
rative design 

Groups VII-VIII. 
Working drawings 
Appreciation in design 

Groups V-VIII. 
Stock bills 
Estimates of cost 



WOODWORK 

Group I. 

Squaring up stock surfaced on two 

sides to thickness 

Group II. 

Squaring up stock surfaced on two 

sides (continued) 

Group III. 
Squaring up rough stock 

Group IV. 
Working curves 

Group V. 
Duplicate parts 

Group VI. 
Design 

Group VII. 
Groove joints 

Group VIII. 
Cross-lap joints 



NOTES ON DRAWING. 



The fine lines of indefinite length represent the 
blocking-out lines. These are made by pressing 
very lightly on the pencil — just enough to make 
them visible. The heavier lines, representing the 
border line and the outlines of the object, are made 
by going over the drawing a second time and press- 
ing rather heavily on the pencil as It moves along 
over the blocking-out line bounding the object. 

All drawing sheets are to have cutting lines, bor- 
der lines, the name of the object, the scale, and the 
name of the owner of the drawing. The name of 
the object drawn and the name of the owner are 
to be printed in letters 3/16" high. The scale will 
be in letters yi" high. Place them as shown in 
Fig. 1. 

Paper for Groups VII and VIII will be 12" by 
18". All other drawings will be on paper 9" by 
12" '. The oblong made by the cutting lines on 



the larger paper will be 11" by 17"; on the 
smaller paper it will be 8" by 11". On either large 
or small paper the border line will be within 
the cutting line 1" on the left side and }4" on 
the other three sides. 

Introductory Sheet — Plate 50. 

1. Place the paper and fasten it to the board. 

2. Lay off the cutting and border lines as fol- 
lows : Lay the scale vertically on the paper and 
place short light lines at the following divisions 
— o", y 2 ", yy 2 " and 8". Thru these points draw 
light blocking-out lines entirely across the paper. 

3. Now lay the scale horizontally and place 
short, light lines at the following divisions, be- 
ginning at the left,— o", 1", 11^" and 12". With 
the triangle and T-square draw light vertical 
blocking-out lines thru these points across the 



r 


THUMB TACK 




BORDER LINE 
r— CUTTING LINE 
j- EDGE OF PAPER 






6 




' 








1 












Tint 




3T-A^E 








NAME 














o 



Fig. 1 



NOTES ON DRAWING 



paper. These lines give border and cutting lines, 
and there remains only the going over the bor- 
der line a second time with pressure on the pencil 
to make it "stand out," Fig. I. 

4. Block out the guide lines for the letters and 
figures — very light lines of indefinite length. 
Each little square is to be Y%" , making the letters 
Yz" high. 

5. Draw the angles. Draw a light line for a 
base line. Drop the T-square below this a little 
in making the angles. Why? 

6. Make the final letters and figures. All fig- 
ures and letters hereafter will be either ■£%" or 
Y%" high and drawn between two lightly made 
lines of indefinite length. Make these lines ■£$" 
apart and y%" as shown. You are supposed to 
have learned the proportions of the letters by this 
time so you need not draw any vertical blocking 
lines as you did on the first set. 

7. Print your name in its proper place. See 
Fig. 1. 



GROUP I. 

Cutting Board — Plate 1. 

Draw to a scale J4" = 1". 

1. Put on the cutting and border lines as de- 
scribed for the Introductory Sheet. 

2. Find the approximate location of the views. 
Do not place your drawing in a corner but in 
the middle of the paper and a little below center. 

3. Place your scale vertically and make short, 
light lines that will locate the bottoms and tops of 
the front and top views. Thru these points draw 
light lines almost all the distance between the 
border lines. 

4. Place the scale horizontally and locate the 
vertical, lines that belong to both front and side 
views. With triangle and T-square draw light 
lilies of indefinite length thru these points. Make 
these lines long enough to cross both front and 
top view. 



10 



PROJECTS— WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



5. Go over the outline a second time with 
pressure on the pencil — horizontal lines first. 

6. Put on dimension lines. 

7. Put on lettering, Fig. 1, and figures. 

GROUP II. 

Counting Board — Plate 2. 
Coat and Hat Rack— Plate 3. 
Key-rack — Plate 4. 

Scale J^" = i". 

1. Draw cutting and border lines. 

2. Locate the views and then block out the 
horizontal and vertical lines of the outlines. 
Make certain these lines are sufficiently long. 

3. Locate and block out the horizontal and 
vertical lines of the chamfer ; next, the oblique 
or slanting lines at the corners. 

4. Locate and block out the lines that locate 
screw hooks or holes. 

5. Make heavy the outline. If you have trou- 



ble in keeping the light blocking lines separated 
in your mind, you may make the outlines heavy 
immediately after blocking out the chamfers. 

(1. Put on the dimension lines. 

7. Put on the lettering and figures. 

Geometric Sheet — Plate 51. 

1. Lay out cutting and border lines. 

2. Divide your space within the border into 
four equal parts. 

3. Locate the center of each of these parts. 

4. Thru these centers draw light horizontal 
lines and on these construct the different figures 
as shown. 

The diameter of the circles in which the hexa- 
gon and six-point star are made is 3". The octa- 
gon is built in a 3" square. The ellipse has a 
major axis of 3j / 2 / ' and a minor axis of 3". For 
the constructions, see Appendix III, Sec. 5 of 
^Essentials of Woodworking. 



NOTES ON DRAWING 



11 



GROUP III. 
Ring-toss — Plate 5. 
Spool Holder— Plate 6. 
Game Board — Plate 7. 
Laundry Register — Plate 8. 

Scale for each project J4" = l". 

Proceed in the same order as in Group II. 
The smaller circles will demand careful handling 
of the compass. 

GROUP IV. 
Sleeve Board — Plate 9. 
Bread Board — Plate 10. 

Scale for each project y 2 " — 1". 

1. Locate and draw a light line of indefinite 
length for center line. 

2. On this line measure off the extreme length 
of the board, also, on the bread board, the thick- 
ness of the cross-section. 

3. Set the compass for a radius of an end and 
describe an arc somewhat greater than a semi- 



circle. In a similar manner describe the arc of 
the circle at the other extremity. 

4. Draw the tangents connecting these circles 
at the top and bottom. On the bread board, pro- 
ject these tangent lines over into the field of 
the cross-section. On the sleeve board project 
vertical tangents at each extremity down into the 
field of its cross-section. 

5. Using the same centers as above, shorten 
the radius as specified on the drawings and put 
on the inner lines of the front view. 

6. Locate and complete the cross-sections, 
putting on their curves. 

7. Make heavy the outlines and border. 

8. Put on the dimension lines. 

9. Cross-hatch the sections. 

10. Put on the figures and lettering. 

Cake Board — Plate n. 

1. Locate and draw the two center lines. 

2. Set the compass and draw the circles. 



12 



PROJECTS— WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



3. Project tangents from these into the field 
of the cross-section. 

4. Complete the cross-section outline. 

5. Make heavy the outlines. 

6. Put on dimension lines. 

7. Cross-hatch the section. 

8. Put on the figures and lettering. 

Scouring Board — Plate 12. 

1. Locate and draw the major and the minor 
axes. 

2. By means of the trammel method (See 
Notes on Woodworking Projects. Directions for 
Scouring Board, paragraph 3, page 26) plot the 
curve and trace it. 

3. Trace the inner curve. 

4. Project tangents to the field of the cross- 
section. 

5. Complete the cross-section outline. 

6. Make heavy all outlines. 



7. Put on dimension lines. 

8. Cross-hatch the section. 

9. Put on figures and lettering. 

Coat Hanger — Plate 13. 

1. Locate and draw the blocking-out line for 
the base line. 

2. Locate the center line and at the same time 
locate the other vertical blocking-out lines as 
shown on the drawing. Draw these lines. 

3. From the base line measure up on these 
vertical lines as indicated on the drawing. Sketch 
the curves thru the points so located. Sketch the 
curve which parallels the top curve. 

4. Project the tangent to the top and bottom 
curves over into the field of the cross-section. 

5. Complete the cross-section outline. 

6. Make heavy all outlines. 

7. Put on dimension lines. 

8. Cross-hatch the section. 

9. Put on figures and lettering. 



NOTES ON DRAWING 



13 



GROUP V. 

Scale — From this on the student will determine 
the scale to be used. The scale should be as 
large as can be used with the paper provided. 
Make the drawing either i"=i", or y 2 "=i" } or 
J4"=i", or #"=i". 

In this and the succeeding groups only a few 
projects need directions for procedure. All of 
them are begun either with a base line, as in the 
cutting board, or with a center line or center lines. 
Some of them have both base line and center line, 
being builded partly from one and partly from 
the other. In almost every case it is clear which 
is to be drawn first — base line or center line. 

Occasionally it is not possible to tell dimensions 
on one view in any other way than by projecting 
lines from corresponding parts in another view. 
If you fail to find dimensions you think you need, 
look to the other view and you will find that by 



drawing that view first you will be able to get 
the necessary dimensions in the second view by 
projection. 

Nail Box— Plate 14. 

Knife Polishing Box — Plate 15. 

It will be necessary to work up the two views 
of this project together, getting some of the lines 
in one view by projecting from the other view. 

Knife and Fork Box — Plate 16. 
Bird Box— Plate 17. 

The end view will have to be drawn first, and 
then, with horizontal lines, projected into the side 
view. Draw the base line entirely across for the 
two views, of course. 

Broom Holder — Plate 18. 

Read directions for Knife Polishing Box. 
Bench-hook— Plate 19. 



14 



PROJECTS— WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



GROUP VI. 

Teapot Blocks — Plate 20. 
Thermometer Back — Plate 21. 
Calendar Mount — Plate 22. 
Card Holder— Plate 23. 
Bill File— Plate 24. 
Handkerchief Box — Plate 25. 
Glove Box — Plate 26. 

1. On the sketch paper provided you, make 
carefully at least four modifications or designs of 
the project assigned your class. 

2. On a second sheet provided you, place three 
of these outlines selected by yourself and in- 
structor. 

3. On another sketch paper make at least four 
modifications or designs for decorating one of 
the three outlines above. 

4. On paper provided place three of these de- 
corative forms selected by yourself and instructor. 

5. Make a full-size pattern, putting in the out- 



line and design for decoration selected by your- 
self and instructor, also a working drawing if 
needed. 

GROUP VII. 

Work from base line, and center line also 
should there be any. 

Groove Joint — Plate 27. 
Book-rack — Plates 28 and 49. 
Necktie Rack — Plates 29 and 48. 
Magazine Rack — Plate 30. 
Footstool — Plate 31. 

The end view will have to have some of its 
lines projected into the other view in order to 
determine some of the measurements in that 

view. 

Paper and Magazine Wall Rack— Plate 32. 
Wall Shelf— Plate 33. 
Table or Desk Shelves — Plate 34. 
Taboret — Plate 35. 



NOTES ON DRAWING 



15 



i. Locate and block out center line of the two 
views. 

2. With the forty-five degree triangle block 
out the lines for the view of the top. 

3. Draw the vertical diagonal of the top view. 

4. Measure to either side of this vertical diag- 
onal one-half the width of the leg and block ver- 
tical lines. Repeat horizontally, on the center 
line. 

5. Block off the corners of the top view where 
these lines just drawn cut the sides of the square 
of the top. 

6. On these lines build the top views of the 
legs. 

7. Project these lines into the field of the front 
view and complete the front view. 

8. Make heavy the outlines. 

9. Put on dimension lines and figures and let- 
tering. 

Stool — Plates 36 and 47. 



GROUP VIII. 

Cross-lap Joint — Plate 37. 
Book Trough— Plate 38. 

None of the vertical measurements of the front 
view can be determined by looking at that view 
therefore it will be necessary to block out the 
view of the end of the trough first and project 
these points into the field of the front view. 
Electric Cluster— Plate 39. 
Electric Table or Desk Light — Plate 40. 
Calendar Mount or Memo Board — Plate 41. 
Hall Rack or Mirror Frame — Plate 42. 
Picture-frame — Plate 43. 
Taboret — Plate 44. 

1. Locate and block out a square for the top. 
On this square construct the octagon. 

2. Horizontally and vertically thru the center 
of the octagon, block out center lines. On either 
side of these center lines block out lines a distance 
equal to one-half the width of the legs. 



STOCK BILL 



(Form) 



Name_ 



Article. 



Grade_ 



Kind of Wood. 



Finished Sizes 


Cutting Sizes 


Pieces 


Thickness 


Width 


Length 


Pieces 


Thickness 


Width 


Length 


J 

1 
2 

1 


% 

H 
K 


3 

m 


5# 

9 
12 


1 
1 
2 
1 


H 
H 


IX 


6 

5 

9H 
12'/ 2 



16 



NOTES ON DRAWING 



17 



3. Where these lines cut the sides of the octa- 
gon, block out the views of the tops of the legs. 

4. Project these lines into the field of the 
front view and complete that view. 

5. Make heavy the outlines. 

6. Put on the dimension lines and figures and 
lettering. 

China Wall Rack— Plate 45. 
Pedestal — Plate 46. 

1. Locate and draw the center line. 

2. Block out the front and top views together 
as the placing of the dimensions necessitate, pro- 
jecting from one view into the other. 

3. The octagonal top is built in a square. 
Curves that have no definite radius marked on 

the drawing are to be made freehand. 

Stock Bill 
Instructions : 

Work from your own drawing. In this 
way you can assist in checking it for e'rrors. 
All projects in Groups I-IV will be made of 



white pine or yellow poplar ; those in Groups 
VII- VIII of chestnut. 

Stock bills are not needed for articles composed 
of one piece of material only. 

Finished sizes are the sizes to which the pieces 
are to be planed. Your drawing will tell you 
these sizes. Pieces of irregular shape are to be 
figured at their widest and longest dimensions. 

Cutting sizes are obtained from the finished 
sizes by adding *4" to the width and Yi" to the 
length. Cutting sizes are the sizes to which you 
work in sawing out the stock preparatory to plan- 
ing it. 

All stock will be mill-planed on two surfaces 
to the correct thicknesses except that for the ring 
toss, spool holder, game board, and laundry 
register. Thickness of mill-planed stock will be 
the same whether for finished sizes or cutting 
sizes. On rough stock, or stock that has not been 
mill-planed, if the finished size is ffl thick the 
cutting size will be 1" thick. 



(Form, reverse side of a Stock Bill) 



ESTIMATE OF COST OF MATERIAL 



2 

A 

4 
5 



square feet of U inch stock (a 7c 

square ft. of % inch stock (a 5c 

1 inch, No. 10, flat head, bright screws @ %c 
square feet of finish (ff lc 



$ .14 
.02 
.01 
.05 

$ .22 



18 



NOTES ON DRAWING 



19 



Sometimes it is possible to save material by 
combining two irregular pieces, Fig. 2. The fin- 




Fig. 2 
ished stock sizes will indicate the number of 
pieces while the cutting size will indicate the size 
of the single piece from which they are to be cut. 

Remember that length always means "along 
the grain of the wood," and that a piece may be 
wider than long. Under the word "Pieces" put 
the number of pieces that are of the same size. 

Estimate of Cost of Material 
Instructions : 

Base your lumber estimate on the cut- 
ting sizes. All prices of lumber in your price 
list are per square foot, therefore, your stock 
should be figured by surface measure, only width, 



length and number of pieces being considered. 

Fractions of an inch and fractions of a cent are 
not considered. If the fraction is J^ or over, use 
the next higher whole number ; thus, 2^2 or 2% 
becomes 3. If the fraction is less than J^ drop it ; 
thus, 2^4 becomes 2. 

In .figuring, find the number of square inches 
in all pieces that are the same in price per foot. 
Reduce this to square feet by dividing by 144. 
Reduce it decimally and do not carry the result 
beyond tenth's place. Dispose of any fractional 
figures beyond tenths as directed above. Always 
write your decimal in a fractional form in the 
bill — otherwise a decimal point might be over- 
looked and the result be greatly changed. In the 
form above .3 is written 3/10, you will note. 

In figuring finish, both surfaces of the stock are 
to be covered so that the easiest way to find the 
number of square feet of finish is simply to dou- 
ble the number of square feet of lumber. Edges 
are not considered. Only Groups VI, VII, and 
VIII have finish applied. 



PRICE LIST FOR 19 — 19— 

LUMBER. 
Chestnut, 1st grade, clear, kiln dried, 

S-2-S to Yz , per square foot 

S-2-S to 24"> per square foot 

S-2-S to 1", per square foot 

White Pine or Yellow Poplar, 1st grade, clear, kiln dried 

S-2-S to Y&" ', per square foot 

S-2-S to J / 2 ", per square foot 

S-2-S to 24", per square foot 

Rough, 1", per square foot 

HARDWARE. 
Screws, 

24" No. 10 flat head, bright, each 

1" No. 10 flat head, bright, each 

i54" No. 10 flat head, bright, each 

i J / 2 " No. 10 flat head, bright, each 

2.y 2 " No. 10 flat head, bright, each 

3" No. 10 flat head, bright, each 

Y%" No. 10 round head, blued, each 

24" No. 10 round head, blued, each 

1^2" No. 10 round head, blued, each 

20 



NOTES ON DRAWING 21 

Nails, 

1%" No. 17 wire brads (used in Groups V and VI), enough for nailing one box 

I yi" No. 15 wire finishing nails (used in Groups VII and VIII), enough nails for nailing one 
project f , 

Miscellaneous : 

No. 81, Ya," brass shoulder hooks for key-rack, each " 

No. 81, 1" brass shoulder hooks for china wall rack, each 

2J/2" black Japanned wire coat hooks, each 

No. 6 wire hook for coat hanger 

No. 1214^ brass screw eye and No. 1614 hook (calendar mount) per pair 

Fixtures for electric lights and hooks for hall mirror are to be purchased by the individual — 
prices and tastes vary so greatly. 

WOOD FINISH. 
Stain, filler, shellac and wax or filler, shellac and wax or stain and wax, per square foot of surface 



NOTES ON WOODWORKING PROJECTS. 



GROUP I. 

Squaring up Stock that has been Mill-planed 
on Two Surfaces to the Desired Thickness. 

No definite dimensions required, but to be 
square and as large as the stock* given will allow. 
The fewer the shavings taken off and the desired 
result attained, the better workman you will be 
considered. 

Stock Provided: 

One piece, 6" by 12", mill-planed, or S-2-S, 

to y A ". 

Directions : 

Show your piece to your instructor after each 
step taken. 

1. Select and mark face side. 

2. Plane a face edge (a) square to the face 
side and (b) straight as to length. (Two tests) 
Mark face edge properly. 



3. Plane a face edge (a) square to the face 
side, (b) parallel to the face edge, and therefore 
straight. (Two tests) • Use sliding try-square 
test for width, not gage. 

4. Plane one end (a) square to face side and 
(b) to the face edge. (Two tests) 

5. Plane second end similarly. 

GROUP II. 

Squaring up Stock that has been Mill-planed 
on Two Surfaces to the Desired Thickness. 
Definite Dimensions. 
Stock Provided : 

Stock will be *4" wider and y 2 " longer 
than the finished sizes, but S-2-S to thick- 
ness. Dowel stock for pegs will be provided ready 
to be sawed into lengths. 
Directions: 

Show your piece to your instructor after each 
step. 



22 



NOTES ON WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



23 



1. Select and plane smooth a face side. (One 
test.) Mark it. 

2. Select and plane a face edge. (Two tests.) 
Mark it. 

3. Gage for width. Keep the gage head against 
the face edge. 

4. Plane second edge to the gage line and 
square. Test for squareness. 

5. Plane one end square. (Two tests.) 

6. Measure off length from this end. 

7. Score knife lines around at point just located. 
Keep the beam of the try-square against one or 
the other of the faces in so doing. 

8. With back-saw cut off surplus stock. Saw 
carefully parallel to the knife line and about 1/32" 
or 1/16" in the waste. 

9. Plane to the knife lines. 

10. With rule and knife divide the width into 
the required number of parts, and mark. 

11. Gage very light lines the full length of the 
piece thru these marks — or mark, in the case of 



the key-rack and hat-rack. Keep the head of the 
gage against the face edge. 

12. Lay a rule along a line so made and mark 
off the hole centers. 

13. With try-square and knife score light lines 
thru these points and across the piece. (This 
step may be omitted on the key-rack and hat- 
rack.) 

14. With a point of the dividers, if no awl is 
provided, mark the places at which the holes are 
to be bored. (On the hat-rack and key-rack also 
mark the places into which the hooks are to be in- 
serted, but be careful not to bore holes there.) 

15. Bore the holes. 

16. Smooth the knife and gage marks from the 
surface. 

17. Lay out and work the chamfer. 

18. Put the numbers on the counting board. 
Make three pegs. Put the hooks on the hat-rack 
and key-rack. 



24 



PROJECTS— WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



GROUP III. 
Stock Provided : 

Stock provided will be J4" wider, y?" iongei 
than finished size and will be in the rough, i" thick. 

Dowel stock will be provided for pegs. 
Directions : 

Show the piece to your instructor after each of 
the steps the numbers of which are in parentheses. 

(i). True and smooth a broad surface. Put 
on a face mark. 

2. Prepare a face edge. Put on a face mark. 

3. Gage to required width from face edge and 
plane to the gage line. 

(4). Gage to required thickness on both edges 
from face side. Plane to the gage lines. 

5. Square one end from the face side and face 
edge. 

(6). Measure the required length and score 
knife lines about the second end. Saw in the 
waste and plane to the knife lines. 



(7). By means of rule, knife, try-square and 
gage lay out the location of the holes, knifing 
across the grain and gaging along the grain, as 
was done in the previous group. Make these 
lines lightly and watch your drawing that no mis- 
takes occur. Mark centers with awl or divider 
point. 

(8). Bore the holes. 

(9). Smooth the knife and gage marks from 
the broad surface. 

(10). Lay out and work the chamfer. 

(11). Make the pegs. 

(12). Sandpaper. 

(13). Glue pegs where so specified on draw- 
ing, and test for plumbness. 

GROUP IV. 
Stock Provided: 

Stock provided hereafter will be mill-planed on 
two surfaces to the required thicknesses, but must 
be cut out by the pupil. 



-.' 



NOTES ON WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



25 



Directions for Getting out Stock: 

i. Never cut a large board until you have first 
looked over the small pieces in the scrap box to 
see if your piece can be cut from one of these. 
They are the same quality of stock, only smaller. 

2. No piece, once having been sawed out, is to 
be put back or disposed of without the instructor's 
permission. 

3. Cut the stock %" wider and y 2 " longer than 
the drawing calls for the finished piece. Where 
the piece is irregular in shape cut for the widest 
part and longest part unless it is possible to econo- 
mise. REMEMBER that length always means 
along the grain. 

4. Lay off with pencil using square and 
straight-edge. Thumb-gage if the edge is fairly 
straight. 

5. Rip-saw first to the cross line then crosscut 
to ripped line, leaving on the board all but just 
what you need. 



Directions for Bread and Sleeve Board: 

Show the piece to your instructor after each step. 

1. Smooth both broad surfaces. 

2. Lay off a center line down the middle of the 
board using a straight-edge and light penciled line. 

3. On this line measure off the extreme length. 

4. Set the dividers to the radius called for; set 
one point of the dividers on one of the points which 
indicates the length of the board and the other 
point of the dividers back on the line. Draw the 
circle a little more than half. 

5. Lay off the circle at the second end similarly. 

6. With a straight-edge and light penciled line 
connect these two circles with their tangents. Be 
sure the lines are tangent. Draw these tangents 
the full length of the board so as to indicate later 
the point at which to start ripping. 

7. Rip-saw parallel to these tangents and Y%" 
in the waste. 

8. With the turning saw cut the curves keep- 



26 



PROJECTS— WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



ing parallel to the line and at right angles to the 
surface and outside the line. 

9. Plane to the tangent lines, testing with try- 
square. 

10. Pare to within 1/32" of the curved line, us- 
ing chisel and chisel board. Keep the edge square 
across. Test with try-square. Carpenters some- 
times use the plane here instead of the chisel. 

11. Spokeshave to the curved lines and plane 
to the straight lines, testing with try-square. 

12. Pencil gage for }i" curve. See Sec. 60, 
Essentials of Woodworking. 

13. Spokeshave the edge rounding. 

14. Sandpaper the curve as shown in Sec. 60. 

15. Remove pencil marks with eraser then 
sandpaper the broad surfaces. 

Directions for Scouring Board: 

1. Smooth the broad surfaces. 

2. With straight-edge and pencil, lay off the 
major axis. At right angles to this lay off the 
minor axis. 



3. Measure and mark off on a piece of paper 
two points a distance apart equal to one-half the 
major axis. From one of these points measure in 
the same direction along the paper's edge a dis- 
tance equal to one-half the minor axis. Keeping 
this last point always on the major axis and the 
adjacent point always on the minor axis, plot the 
curve. Trace the curve. Also see Essentials of 
Woodworking Appendix III, Sec. 5. 

4. With the turning-saw, cut out the form, 
keeping away from the line y&" and sawing square 
across the board. 

5. Pare the waste away to within 1/32" of the 
line. Place the piece on the chisel board so as not 
to cut into the bench. 

6. Cut to the line with the spokeshave. Test 
for squareness of the edge with try-square. 

7. Pencil-gage }i" curve as in Sec. 60, Essen- 
tials of Woodworking. 

8. Spokeshave the edge rounding. 

9. Sandpaper the edge, Sec. 60. 



NOTES ON WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



27 



10. Remove the pencil marks from the broad 
surfaces with an eraser, "and then sandpaper. 
Directions for Coat Hanger: 

i. Select and plane smooth a face side. 

2. Select and plane straight and square a face 
edge. 

3. Smooth the second broad surface. 

4. Plane one end square. 

5. Measure the length, and score knife lines 
around this second end. 

6. Saw off the waste, and plane to the knife 
lines. 

7. Measure along the face edge, and square 
light pencil lines across the face side as indicated 
in the drawing. 

8. Measure along the lines from the face edge, 
and locate the . points needed in plotting the 
curves, and trace carefully the curves freehand. 

9. With the turning-saw, cut the curves, keep- 
ing parallel to the lines and }i" in the waste. Keep 
the blade at right angles to the surface. 



10. Pare to within 1/32" of the line and finish 
to the line, using the spokeshave. Use the try- 
square test frequently for edge. The chisel board 
should be used so as not to injure the bench-top. 

11. The upper edge is to be made rounding. 
Pencil-gage for yi" curve as in Sec. 60, Essentials 
of Woodworking. 

12. Spokeshave this edge rounding, Sec. 60. 

13. Bore the hole for the hook. 

14. Remove all pencil marks with an eraser, 
then sandpaper. 

Directions for Cake Board: 

1. Smooth both broad surfaces. 

2. Locate the center of the block by drawing 
the diagonals and describe the circle wanted. 

3. With the turning-saw, cut the curve, keep- 
ing parallel to the line and %" in the waste. Keep 
the blade at right angles to the surface of the 
board. 

4. Pare to within 1/32" of the line, and finish 
the edge square to the surface with the spoke- 



28 



PROJECTS— WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



shave. Use the chisel board so as not to mark the 
bench-top. 

5. Pencil-gage the Y§" rounded edge, Essen- 
tials of Woodworking, Sec. 60. 

6. Spokeshave the edge rounding. 

7. Remove the pencil marks with an eraser, 
then sandpaper. 

GROUP V. 
Duplicate Parts. 
Fastening with Nails and Screws. 

1. Using your stock bill of cutting sizes, get 
out all your pieces. Use small pieces wherever 
possible. If you find that several boys must wait 
while you are cutting your stock, get out only 
enough pieces to allow you to start planing, and 
return later for the rest. 

2. Remove the mill-marks from both broad 
surfaces. Surface truing is not necessary, for the 
construction of the boxes permits the "nailing 
out" of any slight irregularities. If a beard is 



badly cupped it should not be used for the thick- 
ness for which it was originally intended. 

3. Select and mark the face sides of all pieces 
that are to be of similar width. 

4. Plane a face edge on each of these. 

5. Gage their widths. 

6. Plane their second edges. 

7. Plane one end of each piece square. 

8. Place those that are to be of equal length on 
the bench side by side, even the ends that were 
planed, and measure off the length on one piece. 

9. Score knife line across all the face edges at 
this point. 

10. Separate the pieces and carry these lines 
across the face side of each piece, square to the 
face edges. 

it. Finish these second ends in the usual man- 
ner. 

If these like pieces are any of them under size 
thru faulty work, reset the gage and regage all 
of them to the same width as the smallest part of 



NOTES ON WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



29 



the poor piece. If it was the length of one of them 
that was wrong, place them again on the bench, 
face edges up, and re-mark them, and then re- 
work them to this shorter length. 

12. In a similar manner work up other pieces 
having similar widths or lengths, then work up 
the single pieces. 

Take note to see whether any of these latter 
pieces are affected by changed dimensions on pre- 
vious pieces. If they are, follow the new dimen- 
sions as obtained from the pieces already worked. 
For illustration, if the two sides of a box have been 
shortened thru poor work a middle partition run- 
nig parallel with them, and the bottom dimension 
parallel to these sides, will have to be shortened 
accordingly. Do not change any parts, however, 
that are not so affected — the width of the bottom, 
for instance. 

13. Test all the parts by placing them in posi- 
tion or along side corresponding parts. 



14. Sandpaper all the parts except those parts 
that go together to form a joint. 

15. Fasten the parts. ,On boxes fasten the 
sides or the ends to the partition. Fasten the ends 
to the sides or the sides to the ends. Place the 
bottom last. 

In fastening the bottom, place and nail one edge 
of the bottom to a side of the box. Next make 
even the end of the bottom and one end of the box, 
and nail this. If the end of the bottom board and 
the end of the box do> not "line up" move the 
unfastened side of the box until they are even. 
Fasten the other side and end and set the nails. 
If the bottom projects any, plane it off and sand- 
paper the outside of the box. 
Fastening with Screws : 

1. Square up the different parts as described 
above. 

2. Bore the holes in the parts thru which the 
screws are to be first put. Countersink these 
holes. 



30 



PROJECTS— WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



3. Place the upper piece on the lower and mark 
thru the holes already bored with brad-awl or a 
divider point. Insert the screws. As this is soft 
wood no boring need be done in the second piece. 
If you have trouble holding the parts together 
place the pieces in the vise and insert one screw 
at a time. 

GROUP VI. 
Design: Structural, Decorative. 
Directions : 

I. Work up the various parts. The method to 
be used will depend upon the design of the struc- 
ture. If the outline is based upon a square or ob- 
long, square up the parts in the usual manner, and 
put in the modifications afterward. For illustra- 
tion, the octagon is based upon the square. Work 
the part to a square, therefore, and afterward lay 
out for the corners. 

If the part is circular, no edges or ends are 



squared up, but the curve is laid out immediately 
and worked. 

If the outline of the part is irregular in shape, 
it will be necessary to make a full-sized templet or 
pattern in paper and by laying this on the wood 
and marking around it, get the shape. Here a 
center line will be used. 

None of the suggestions given require any new 
methods tho they may require, and are intended 
to require a little thought as to which of the 
methods previously used they demand for their 
solution. 



Sandpaper the parts and put them together. 
If nails are used set the heads slightly and 
cover them. 
4. Apply the design. 

Outline the design as instructed. 
Apply the stains. 
Apply the wax for polishing. 
Apply a second coat of wax. 



2. 

3- 



5- 
6. 

7- 
8. 



NOTES ON WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



31 



GROUP VII AND GROUP VIII. 

Groove Joint. Cross-lap Joint. 
Directions : 

1. Using the cutting sizes of your stock bill, 
get out all your stock. If you should find that 
several boys are waiting while you cut your stock, 
take only enough to get your work started, and 
return later for the rest. 

2. Work up like parts, planning the work so as 
to insure accuracy and save time. If you have for- 
gotten how to work duplicate parts, reread direc- 
tions for Group VI. 

Be sure to remove the mill-marks before laying 
out any joints. 

Do not put on any chamfers until the joints 
have been laid out. 

3. Lay out the joints. See Essentials of Wood? 
working, Sees. 62, JJ. 

4. Work the joints. See Essentials of Wood- 
working, Sees. 78, 79, 80, 81. 



5. On the groove joint projects, sandpaper 
the parts and put on the filler. Clean off the filler, 
put the parts together and, after the filler has dried 
over night, shellac, and then wax. 

6. On the cross-lap projects, glue and clamp 
the joints. Glue up your joints as they are ready, 
so as to have them dry when they are needed later. 
When this glue has hardened over night take off 
the clamps, clean up the wood with sandpaper, and 
put on the finish. 

Directions for Finish: 

1. Apply the filler. See Essentials of Wood- 
working, Sec. 151. 

Be sure to get it cleaned off and out of the cor- 
ners while it is soft. Allow the filler to stand over 
night after being rubbed. 

2. Sandpaper the filler with fine paper held on 
the finger tips. Apply a very thin coat of shellac 
and allow this to dry over night. See Essentials 
of Woodworking, Sec. 149. 



32 



PROJECTS— WOODWORKING, AND MECHANICAL DRAWING 



3. Sandpaper this^hellac lightly with fine pa- 
per held on the finger tips. Apply a coat of wax. 
Essentials of Woodworking, Sec. 153. If a decora- 
tive design in spirit stains has been used, omit the 
shellac coat and apply two coats of wax. Stain 



for decorative design is to be applied after sand- 
papering the wood and before applying the filler. 

Note : Oil finish will not stick to glue spots. 
Neither will glue stick to an oiled surface. 




Plate 1. 



couniikk; hoard 



^ 



10 



6 ■■ »J <■> 



■- -- 






o ■■ fJ o <r ■ > v> r- ■) 



-j- <|j ij> ^T «fc <4> rf- ep 



«> f- o 



.. — .. — .. 



-■ — ■ — ■■ — ■■ — - 



«ur- 



THRLJ BORE -| HOI E5 AT -I- 







7t 



fcLPNG 



KOI NT THE FND-S ^ EACH 



Plate 2. 



C0A1-BND- HAT RACK 




tj- 



^±H 



\8 



zf 



^ 



<\J 



£ HOLES FOR SCREWS AT V 

g^ TTTRi- COAT HOOK.S AT -4- 



Plate 3. 



K^Y HACK- 




























,1 


\ 




/I<nW 




>■ « 


>-W 








Ift 






AM 


\ 






lo 








./ 




^ 
















1 




/ 


t 
-Km 








■c "* > 3 - 




a 


H- 


» 




*''" 


rvj 

I 






J " 


J 







o * 








' - - 




/ 






















\ 



j |' HOLES FAR SCREWS AT X 
2 BHAS.S CUP HflflK.S AT -4- " 



Plate 4. 




Plate 5. 



SPOOI HOI Dh-H 




s; 




•71- 



— <* 



=»r 



KOINI -inH lit- t-ACH 
■ r^nijim rir 



Plate 6. 



GAME BOARCT 




EHHHHH5 



SHH5 



IHHJ 



SHHHSi 



EHHHM 



?HH5 



?HHJ 



P 



•7i- 




■oko(}~ 



from % dowel ■STonr-Mmnn? pe.cs 
POINT ENDS -ft EAC H 

„ joi. itAIHF. — PI Art- - Al i hh;s IN THL 
HnARn.=3IMP PEG5 ONE OVER ANOTHF R 



ALONG STRAIGHT LINES , HORIZONTALLY , ~ 
VERTICAI I Y OR DIAfiflNAI I Y— PI AN THF 



PLAYS Sfl THAT THE FINAI PFC Til HF 
KEMOVFD Will I AND JUMPFP. IN 
CENTRA! Hni F. 



Plate 7. 



I AUNDRY R FG LSThK 




DRAWER? 



l± 



^fc 



rt|T 



- — — - 



.„„„__„„. 

.„„„„„„_. 



;; ezc 



-— — ■— - 



■" — — T t T ■' 



■I— — — — — — — ' 



7i 



k" 



-N 
IN 



AT EACH + BORE A | HOLE j- Q£FP- 



FROM^ DOWEL .STnrEr^v&W -RrPF C S I I OTSTCr 

-4=- 



Plate 8. 



SI FFVh H OAR D 





Plate 9. 



BHKAD HOARD 




B 




sE nnns z 



Plate 10. 



CAKh HOAHH -m 

CROCK COVFTT 






JZ 



5FCTION AT AH 



Plate LI. 



■Sf.fHIKINC HOAHH 





JL 



CROSS SECTION AT C^TT 



IOLOr.ATF F--' AND F a 

I. locate point 'rr~ 



- 2.. lAKh r R" »n-R ATsfET 
TJKAW. h*F + FF'=AR 



Plate 12. 



COAT HANC FFT 





-M*- 



5f 



3WFFPARCS = 16*" AND ?7^ ~ 



Plate 13. 




Plate 14. 




Plate IS. 




Plate 16. 




Plate 17. 



RROOM HOLDER 



5 



T 




-ife 



|^1o 5CREB 



L 



W 



3^ 



-it 



10- 



^1- 



T 



— i«i 



>s 



i 



^ 



fa 



Plate 18. 



HhNCH HOOK 

RIGHT AND I FFT HAND 



JL 



^ 



1 



"5f 

T 




12 



' To sc r ew: 



+ 



><y* 



-r* 



Plate 19. 



TEAPOT BLOCKS (boctjk model -to be modified) 



3EKaSE5TD3HS= 



J 




2 



m 



ww&wm 



-7i- 




STOfK- ^ THICK 



Plate 20. 



1 1 Hh HM( )Mh TF R RAKKlSr^T^ nnn - to rf modified) 



O 







">I<Q | 




Plate 21. 



c:ai.hmdar MOUNT (blank model-to be. modified) 




^^ZZZnzs^^g 






DCJICN£D BY CORDON KE.LLAR 



Plate 22. 



CARD HQLDEJB (blank model-to be modified) 






---H-|<M 



-|«VJ 



a 



zi- 







SUGGESTIONS 








I I 



V//////////;;///;/////j//;;////, 




Plate 23. 



HILL HLhfcuANK MonF_i.-Tn hf MnmnFn) 






kj 



-t* 











1^7773 n f777xl 













Plate 24. 



HANDKERCHIEF BOX (BLANK MODEL-TO BE MODIFIED) 



¥ 



I— 



-4f- 



-I* 
<\1 



■Ah 



MODIFIED EDGES 



£ 



TOP- BOTTOM TOP- BOTTOM 



TOI 



7 /JtM/Utl/ZZ)^ 






58s» 



^ 



^, 



.vS? 



Si^Tl <77V 



:u' ; 



02 



> ///s/s/M///SM/s;// . 




fazzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzL 



Plate 25. 



(il OVh bJOX-^=n ank MnnFi — to hf mohiukh)- 



-■t 



m 



&& 



10* 1 




w 



Jf8§ 






^r^3i 



(p 



3r 

i 



^0= 



=DD= 




HOUIHm HreS 




^ 
^ 



IS 



rap-HHmwr 



31 



Plate 26. 




Plate 27. 




Plate 28. 



NbCKllh HACK 





-II- 



12- 



15 



16 



— y& 



-(n . 



^ 






in tit 



(O 



-l«vl 



id 



■^^ 



I 



1^-° 



I' In firRtrm- 



PLATE 29. 



MACA/INh RACK 




i 



-Tt- 



fr 



3L. 









3S 
.5- 



■'!- 



* 



^ 



sLi. 



r 



IT 



+ 171 



-M 



r 
I 

J I_ 



—1332^3^ 



E 



1* 



i 






HMiqi-n INI bUSti 



I : j"s B=qs . A Y~"~\- 



v-'r |; 'i 



I - 



-18 



-41 



Plate 30. 



hO Ol 5T0 0I 




5 





14- i d r k anIFT 






2f- 



Plate 31. 



PAHhK OR MAGAZINE- WAI I RATFC 




.g 



-2.2 



Zl 




*r-*/" 



-3f- 



Plate 32. 



W A L L sh e le: 



hi 



IS 



illl- 



V.0- 



IjIcSCREffll 




Plate 33. 



TAB LE OR D ESK SHEL V ES 




»« P j - «o ^t 



cy i 




25^ 



24 



C5) 



WHJ 






Plate 34. 




Plate 35. 



smm 



2.0 



^—r*: 




l »r f f 



lit 




o- 



A T*** 



j - 1 -f^- JK 



i 



@ @' 



00 




Plate 36. 



_ 



UKU5 5 -LAP JOIN T ( 5jkPARATQBY_ ra,JS R UE_.y ii) 
























1 

-1« 








H 

Q 
U 

i 


1 
1 








1 








1 




X. 






.3 


5 — 

i 


U- 


1 

1- 


5 






1 1 
1 . 












1 

T 


1 


# 


| | | x^ 




f 






1 1 1 












. 




1 


1 







Plate 37. 



ROOK TROUGH 





2 — 



1r. F 



■ j." 1n a h ni.lltj'J 




15 



o 



Plate 38. 






. 











■ 1 




WOODWORK FOR 


\ 


hi FCTF 


Ht: n usihRify ' 




-rtfco-Lj 


\ ' 




i 


U 


f 










i 


1 


■ -Wl 




/ 




\ 


<9 

. 1 

I 4 , ' 


1 ' 


' 




-f- 




+ 




* *- 


— 


1 


\ 




J 




K 




~>F 


" 


% 




r 






"f- 


CD 


■ -W) 








^y 










> 




/ 


N 


y 




\ — •/ 








1=1 Sr 




chi i in(; h i onk. 



1 



i 



<^= 



-fl- 



+ 



-8- 



dO 



Plate 39. 




Plate 40. 




Plate 41. 



HAI I RACK „, 



A 



=,*=±: 



ISZZJ 



lUXIKMIKKOH OR KD.qrt-H PiriUJHL., 



-26 $■- 



5'==': 



^ 



H 



inf 



-^ 



-.£> 



3 



-to 

o 



— i — <M — = 



n 



T 




I 



-|=o 
00 

^ ^> i cx;k hon hac:kttn^- 



HOOK.S AT X HriR- 



HAL. I RAfTt- 



Plate 42. 



HdUEEZ^eSME: 




£ 



_, 



r=? 



-25 i- 



HlrHHV HirTUM-.K 



IV 



Hfc * 



cO 



■m 



I 



-8- 



-<M 



^ 



3 



?- 



h* 






* DmT3_, 




: ..^ 



o ir- 






10 acHEia: 



J- 4i aif)U< H1H HAT.lt! NK 
4 



Platic 43. 



IABOKE.T 






" O l-tf 






UH 



&= 



■ft 



-**- 



18 



Plate 44. 



CHINA WA I 1 RACK' 





u 



-41 






TT 



(O 



r=7 



%J CUP HOflK-S AT r 



-45 



-^ 



£± 



-2- 



Plate 45. 



HI- I ->\- S rAI~ 




/ 



X 



r 



± 



fas; 



-39±- 



t_ 



■^T 



A- 






t± 



JU 



A) 



-I'M 



-MH 



s >\ 



4#fc 



^i 



T^P 



p acwfcig: 



^ 



M- 



Plate 46. 



SIXTHS riVh IHhAIMhN'LS K)R .STHO^ 




r 



■^ 




-rrr 



jj k 



Plate 47. 



SUGGESTIVE TREATMENTS FOR NECKTIE RACK 









• 


— 1 

1 
1 

I 












\ 


HOUSED JOINT 




^ <S—X 





zrr 



\ 



i 
i 



DADO JOINT 





Plate 48. 



SUGGESTIVE TREATMENTS FOR BOOK RACK 



HOUSED JOINT 



3 




u 




DESIGN BY CLE.VELANO ELEMENTARY IND. SCHOOL. 



"IK WW 




tzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz 
J 



Plate 49. 




Plate SO. 




SI X -P OINT STAR 






Plate 51. 



-u/V 27 



1912 





>£&&$]&*&•' ^^'^%'«§i^ T''*' 1 N?r^i.''t^> , V Hi 8 1 




ONG SERIES 




/ANCED PROJECTS IN WOODWORK. 




f ty plates of problem* i« furniture m*k> 




rke 1 1 - -v - 1 $f.00 




ENTI ALS OF WOODWORKING. The stand ■ 


AND MECHANICAL DRAWING. A book 1 


rd textbook on woodworking. Adaptable 


! * ftf problest , witb uotei and d i r<c tieni , for t < 


1 any course of project 5, 


trades Vtt aid.YllI. Price 75 cent* P 


rice - 1 - - V \ * 100 


||j PUBLISHED 


'■ ► t»->' 


The Manual Arts Pres 


'*■■'} '4m J|il^i^»»»*^* ^IjI*'*' »»lkJ 



hJ^'^ r 



JH 






->.: I r.<r M 



ftifaa 

SgttEd 



mHB**™?*! 



■ 



Mil 



mmmm 






■HH 












s^ 





















f % 















jS 






.* , ■* 






'/■ ,0f 






X° U 






•> y 



I* 



A "X. 






VT'S 



:^ 









V 






,0 



vV^ 









v l 



s ' a 



«H 



<•>, ' 



•v ^ V 















*V 



\\ « 






.\\ 












•r 



*A 



■-a. *fj 



v 












.^% 









♦V 



'J ^ 












"W 






\* 






•% 



' 







/ 


'o 






- 




.\° 


■u 


































































V 6 **>- n \ 



w 


-- , 


■.»**' 









*v 






\\ v ->^ 






%,^ 












■ 



o5 °- 













" 




















■ 




"% V 








- 






- 
























^ v 



'^e. aN 
























\ u ^ 



**■/* 





















; ^% 






>• - ■ ^9» . 



■/'% 



**-o< 









v v 



.v^<> 















iMl'sZMttWi 



- ' A I' 

IB 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 824 493 3 • 



i* 



<U 



m 
I H i 



■ 




JO* 



